tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-516147879960334586.post5628840984920918247..comments2023-10-10T08:18:56.243-07:00Comments on Labor Limae: Universal DozukiSebastian Gonzalezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04217512990715648095noreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-516147879960334586.post-73043970775777054492015-10-26T09:36:23.320-07:002015-10-26T09:36:23.320-07:00I love that idea!I love that idea!Jasonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06740185043053833321noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-516147879960334586.post-45441969052422423902015-10-24T18:39:04.427-07:002015-10-24T18:39:04.427-07:00no, in fact you answered implying something like t...no, in fact you answered implying something like that, converting most of them to cross cut and leaving a few raker teeth. But I wanted something more like this, a rip that can be used for a bit of cross. A dovetail saw in fact. By the way, have you ever made the first few teeth of a rip saw cross cut? Like what some people do with a ryoba and start a rip wwith the cross side but then in just one side of the saw?Sebastian Gonzalezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04217512990715648095noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-516147879960334586.post-89491508578665048952015-10-24T18:33:06.765-07:002015-10-24T18:33:06.765-07:00Oopps, I think I missed that email?
But what I do...Oopps, I think I missed that email?<br /><br />But what I do is create "rip" teeth in a cross-cut blade. It still functions like a cross-cut, but mitre cuts out to 50 degrees are improved. Then rip teeth (sharp!) do 40 to 0 degrees.Markhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10904549664984991709noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-516147879960334586.post-90009729965997165992015-10-22T15:26:11.521-07:002015-10-22T15:26:11.521-07:00maybe money? Don's universal saw had one patte...maybe money? Don's universal saw had one pattern on top of which it was two rip teeth every n cross. Like if the saw if first cut for one pattern and then for another in a different machine. Chumasaru's approach changes the spacing so if you would like to make that with a machine would need a dedicated one. So my guess is that's cheaper not to put the raker if you are doing it industrially. <br /><br />Or maybe I didn't understand your question? <br /><br />The only thing I know is that I really like the madonoko style for dozuki, it's a really fast way of turning a regular saw into an amazing tool.<br /><br />Bring that post live, want to see more teeth. Sebastian Gonzalezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04217512990715648095noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-516147879960334586.post-56299638930751405822015-10-22T15:03:02.522-07:002015-10-22T15:03:02.522-07:00That geometry just so happens to be a nearly perfe...That geometry just so happens to be a nearly perfect match to what I've been putting on one of my "user" saws that I've been using on green wood. Kind of an out-in-jungle, guerilla ninja saw, haha, very stealth. A post happens to be in the works......not that I've got any particular insight, exactly.<br /><br />Another similarity in tooth shape would be to the ubiquitous kataba-kind of/pruning saw (I'm not clear on its real name). Mine have an almost rip tooth pattern, but with a vary small top facet. <br /><br />My big question is.....Why don't all of these saws have some sort of "raker" tooth? I'm currently putting them on my saws at the same time as I deepen the gullets, when the teeth start looking short and chubby. When I remember, that is.<br /><br />Jasonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06740185043053833321noreply@blogger.com