Rip pattern — close up

By popular demand, a follow up on the rip pattern I'm using on my Ryoba. (Actually, on my large Ryoba, I have a small one and a medium one that now is being welded by a friend of mine – more on that later.)

This is how the Azibeki looks under light:

Again, focus on the light spots on top of the teeth. This is a diagram I made of how a tooth looks from the side.

This "third face" is something I haven't seen on any of my other Ryobas, it's also really small. However, Paul Sellers has something similar (but comparatively larger):

I put the hammer marks to indicate the direction in which the tooth is set, in this case going inside the screen. If the set is towards the other direction, the "third face" is on the other side.

The rationale for this, I guess, is to make it easier to start the cut. Since the area of contact is smaller, the pressure on the wood is higher, ie, there is more shear on the wood. This makes sense to me since the Azikibi is a saw to make cuts on the middle of a board and not on the edge, so at the start you need to slice the fibers of the wood. 

Finally, the teeth are filed without fleam so the inside of the teeth reflect light in the same direction, independent of the set:

Hope this clarifies the rip pattern I talked on the last post. If not, just ask and I try again. 

(On the back of the last picture you can see the files I use, and some of the sharpening stones I have, soon a post on them.)

NB: The saw I have I bought from dictum but there is a cheaper version (and signed, mine is not) on ebay.